Tuesday, May 14, 2013

North East India- unplugged: Gangtok

5 May

Moving up towards the higher altitudes, Gangtok is the overnight stop. The journey had to be broken up since a 8-10 hrs journey at a stretch isn't allowed.

10AM: "River rafting"- till now the most adventurous activity of the tour. Since it was the second experience, the kids were not as apprehensive as the first time. This time though, it was grade 2 rapids, a level higher than the previous one. Over the 'Teesta' river, flanked by West Bengal and Sikkim on either sides, it was a half an hour ride, accompanied by 3 lifeguards. A photographer was booked for each raft, who would follow us on land and zoom in for the pics. Definitely worth the efforts. Next time, would probably go a level higher.

12PM: The drive to Gangtok was all along the Teesta river with winding roads and the weather all along being very pleasant.

A very odd rule was brought to our notice. SUVs and big vehicles are not allowed inside Gangtok city. That meant that we would have to change our SUMO before proceeding to the hotel.
It was pouring with the Gods striking regularly with thunder and lightning. The next leg of the tour would be jeopardized if the weather played spoilsport. Our driver was just priming us for the things to come during our tour. Some supernatural elements, bad weather, military impositions, etc. All seemed very intriguing. Only time will tell. Watch this space for more.

4PM: Checked in 'Keepsa Residency'. Supposedly owned by our Danny Denzongpa. The hotel is quite lavish and in close proximity to the town. Anyways, it's just an overnight stay.

7PM: The Gods have finally relented. The skies have cleared. It seems that it rains daily during the afternoon till evenings. We will now be in a position to have a feel of this city. A walk down MG road livens up the spirits. It really does. It would be a far cousin of the regular Mall roads in these other hill cities. Studded with eateries and retail outlets, this walkway gives a feel of being out of this country.

9PM: With a heater close to the bed, it was a warm and cosy sleep.


9 May

The Nepalese called it "Sukhim" - The New Place; for the bhutias seeing those endless paddy fields it was "DemaZong"- the Valley of Rice. But it's original inhabitants - the Lepchas understood this land the best- for them it was simply "Nye-mae-el Lang"- abode of the Gods.

At an altitude of 5500 ft, Gangtok, a part of East Sikkim, is a highly picturesque city getting more and more popular with each passing year.

Today is our local sight seeing.

After quite a few days, we have had the opportunity to show off our summer wear. We also need to complete the city tour before 2 pm, since that's the time it generally starts raining.

10AM: We start off with 'Hanuman Tok' and then 'Ganesh Tok'. It is here that we get to click a few pics in local attire.
'Tashi view point' is supposed to give a good view of the Kanchenjunga and other mountains. But the clouds haven't given us that privilege.
'Bakhthang water falls' - Just another amazing fall but with a little adventure sport for kids. "Travessing and river crossing".
A Flower show, few monasteries and the Tibetology museum to complete it off.

2PM: The rains have kept their appointment with this city. Fortunately, our job has been done.
M.G. Road
A city tour would be highly incomplete without shopping especially at MG road.

'Bakers cafe' on MG road provides pizzas, burgers, sandwiches and a host of pastries. An excellent joint for a quick bite.
"It is nice to be important but it is more important to be nice".
That's what this cafe preaches.

8PM: Dinner at Mahindra and off to bed.

10 May

9AM: We thought we were done with our winter wear but that was not to be. Today's visit to 'Tsomgo' Lake was supposedly equally chilly. There were quite a few scary reviews about this place. The road would regularly be closed due to landslides. Just 2 days back there was a casualty when a rock fell on a tourist vehicle but fortunately not much injuries. So gathering all the courage, we embarked on this last visit of the holiday.
After clearing the mandatory check post, we were on our way. Uneven and narrow ridges and bridges, flowing water, blocking boulders, all seemed to aggravate our tensions.
Even the atheist would change his beliefs here.

12PM: A lake bounded by snowy mountains on all sides would always be a visual treat. Gurudongmar lake was equally enthralling. Then what was so special about this one? It wasn't just a lake. It was an experience in itself. There were Yak rides upto to the snow from the lake and back.
Yaks were very well dressed. As soon as the Yak gets a year old, it's training begins. It takes roughly 4 months for it to be ready for the tourists. Maintaining a yak costs dear.
Everyone had the time of their life playing in the snow. Sliding down the snow sheets was an experience one would never easily forget. Photographs galore.
We stopped for a short meal on the way back. What a meal it was! Maggi, chicken fried rice, Momos. I have realised by now that the 2 minutes Maggi noodles may not be so enterprising routinely but at altitudes of more than than 10000 ft, it is divine.

We had to skip a visit to Baba Mandir due to lack of time. There is a legend attached to this. Harbhajan Singh is a true soldier who goes missing. He is all powerful and mighty. His soul still haunts the household and and the temple is built to worship him.

The name Tsomgo meaning 'above the lake' was given by yak herders. Old folktale says that the lake was in a place called 'laten' in olden times and the place where it is today was actually a GOTH or cattle shed where herders kept their yaks. One night an old woman in her dream was told to leave the place soon as it would be filled with water. Next morning she warned all the herders. But they refused to believe her. She left the village and as she left she saw a lady with flowing hair believed to be Guardian Deity of the lake enter the valley and soon the place was filled with water and Tsomgo lake was formed. The other herders perished in the water along with their yaks.
The lake is worshipped today by people and religious offerings made especially during Guru Poornima.

4PM: Back to the hotel and relaxing. The tour is over now.
Valley View from Royal Demazong

7PM: A game of housie at night followed by a sumptuous dinner and hit the sack.

That sums up the Gangtok holiday. It held lots of promise. Though the initial phase seemed off the mark, it gradually picked up and ended with the best. I would highly recommend a visit to North East India - Sikkim. Leh and Ladakh have much similarities to this place. But the beauty of both these places lies in the eyes of the beholder.
















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