North East India unplugged - Darjeeling

1May

9AM: The New Jalpayguri is just a small village. It's only significance being the Railway Station that is closest to Darjeeling. The weather is extremely pleasant giving the feel of imminent rain. The major mode of communication seems to be bicycles. Probably, that's the secret to the green environment of this region.

Ghoom Monastery

12 PM: A Buddhist Monastery- 'Ghoom' -and a War Memorial 

War Memorial

on the way and then to Darjeeling.

Darjeeling as the reputation suggests, is a very hustly bustly town buzzing with tourists.
3PM: The 'Glenary's' is a cafe on the mall road. It has a wide variety of pastries, sandwiches n burgers. The chicken pie is worth going miles for. And all very reasonably priced.
5PM: A walk down the mandatory Mall Road and a town square called 'Chowrasta' in local lingo. A very lively atmosphere with a band playing Hindi music in the backdrop with horse rides and shopping at the market.

2 May 

9AM: Japanese temple and Peace Pagoda.

Peace Pagoda

 Buddha in his 4 different mudras - Nirvana, Sermon, Meditation and Birth.

Nirvana

Birth

Sermon

Meditation

A visit to the "Tea Gardens"-They do not need water for their cultivation. Hence these are always built on a slope to prevent stasis of water.

12PM: 'Rangit valley ropeway' is a 5km long cable car ride. Soaring over the lush tea plantations, the experience is worth the long wait at the queue.

Special mention needs to be made about these Momos at every nook and corner. They are prepared especially at these roadside stalls and are either vegetable or chicken based. Are definitely worth a try.

5PM: The softy at 'Keventer's' on the Mall road seems the perfect foil for the windy and chilly weather here at Darjeeling.

10PM: Early to bed and early to rise....

3 May

9AM: "Himalayan Zoological Park"- Unfortunately missed it yesterday since its closed on Thursdays. But we were determined to check it out before we leave this place. And I dare say we would have missed something had we skipped this zoo. It has a good collection of Himalayan carnivores and herbivores including few rare species of pheasants, snow leopard, black leopard, Bengal tiger, red panda, etc just to name a few. The place is well maintained, clean and efforts taken to keep these animals as close to their natural habitat as possible.
"Do not tease the animals. Imagine yourself in their place"

This would sum up the Darjeeling leg of the tour.

Majority of the shops and retail outlets mention their address as GORKHALAND. This seemed very intriguing. I needed to get to the depth of this. This is what I found out.

Gorkhaland (Nepali: गोर्खाल्याण्ड) is a proposed state in India demanded by the majority people of Darjeeling hills and the people of Gorkha ethnic origin in Dooars in northern West Bengal.
The basic point about Gorkhaland is IDENTITY and NOT DEVELOPMENT. These Gorkhas originating from Nepal seem to have lost their identity as Indians, ironically due to a reciprocal treaty signed between Nepal and India in 1950. The common belief amongst the people is that once Telangana comes into existence, Gorkhaland would too kick off. However, the demand for a separate Telangana state is for the development of its region and not its lost identity.

Darjeeling doesn't live up to its hype. Though it's weather is very cold but erratic, it could be a good destination for a honeymooning couple.

North East India- unplugged: Gangtok

5 May

Moving up towards the higher altitudes, Gangtok is the overnight stop. The journey had to be broken up since a 8-10 hrs journey at a stretch isn't allowed.

10AM: "River rafting"- till now the most adventurous activity of the tour. Since it was the second experience, the kids were not as apprehensive as the first time. This time though, it was grade 2 rapids, a level higher than the previous one. Over the 'Teesta' river, flanked by West Bengal and Sikkim on either sides, it was a half an hour ride, accompanied by 3 lifeguards. A photographer was booked for each raft, who would follow us on land and zoom in for the pics. Definitely worth the efforts. Next time, would probably go a level higher.

12PM: The drive to Gangtok was all along the Teesta river with winding roads and the weather all along being very pleasant.

A very odd rule was brought to our notice. SUVs and big vehicles are not allowed inside Gangtok city. That meant that we would have to change our SUMO before proceeding to the hotel.
It was pouring with the Gods striking regularly with thunder and lightning. The next leg of the tour would be jeopardized if the weather played spoilsport. Our driver was just priming us for the things to come during our tour. Some supernatural elements, bad weather, military impositions, etc. All seemed very intriguing. Only time will tell. Watch this space for more.

4PM: Checked in 'Keepsa Residency'. Supposedly owned by our Danny Denzongpa. The hotel is quite lavish and in close proximity to the town. Anyways, it's just an overnight stay.

7PM: The Gods have finally relented. The skies have cleared. It seems that it rains daily during the afternoon till evenings. We will now be in a position to have a feel of this city. A walk down MG road livens up the spirits. It really does. It would be a far cousin of the regular Mall roads in these other hill cities. Studded with eateries and retail outlets, this walkway gives a feel of being out of this country.

9PM: With a heater close to the bed, it was a warm and cosy sleep.


9 May

The Nepalese called it "Sukhim" - The New Place; for the bhutias seeing those endless paddy fields it was "DemaZong"- the Valley of Rice. But it's original inhabitants - the Lepchas understood this land the best- for them it was simply "Nye-mae-el Lang"- abode of the Gods.

At an altitude of 5500 ft, Gangtok, a part of East Sikkim, is a highly picturesque city getting more and more popular with each passing year.

Today is our local sight seeing.

After quite a few days, we have had the opportunity to show off our summer wear. We also need to complete the city tour before 2 pm, since that's the time it generally starts raining.

10AM: We start off with 'Hanuman Tok' and then 'Ganesh Tok'. It is here that we get to click a few pics in local attire.
'Tashi view point' is supposed to give a good view of the Kanchenjunga and other mountains. But the clouds haven't given us that privilege.
'Bakhthang water falls' - Just another amazing fall but with a little adventure sport for kids. "Travessing and river crossing".
A Flower show, few monasteries and the Tibetology museum to complete it off.

2PM: The rains have kept their appointment with this city. Fortunately, our job has been done.

M.G. Road

A city tour would be highly incomplete without shopping especially at MG road.

'Bakers cafe' on MG road provides pizzas, burgers, sandwiches and a host of pastries. An excellent joint for a quick bite.
"It is nice to be important but it is more important to be nice".
That's what this cafe preaches.

8PM: Dinner at Mahindra and off to bed.

10 May

9AM: We thought we were done with our winter wear but that was not to be. Today's visit to 'Tsomgo' Lake was supposedly equally chilly. There were quite a few scary reviews about this place. The road would regularly be closed due to landslides. Just 2 days back there was a casualty when a rock fell on a tourist vehicle but fortunately not much injuries. So gathering all the courage, we embarked on this last visit of the holiday.
After clearing the mandatory check post, we were on our way. Uneven and narrow ridges and bridges, flowing water, blocking boulders, all seemed to aggravate our tensions.
Even the atheist would change his beliefs here.

12PM: A lake bounded by snowy mountains on all sides would always be a visual treat. Gurudongmar lake was equally enthralling. Then what was so special about this one? It wasn't just a lake. It was an experience in itself. There were Yak rides upto to the snow from the lake and back.
Yaks were very well dressed. As soon as the Yak gets a year old, it's training begins. It takes roughly 4 months for it to be ready for the tourists. Maintaining a yak costs dear.
Everyone had the time of their life playing in the snow. Sliding down the snow sheets was an experience one would never easily forget. Photographs galore.
We stopped for a short meal on the way back. What a meal it was! Maggi, chicken fried rice, Momos. I have realised by now that the 2 minutes Maggi noodles may not be so enterprising routinely but at altitudes of more than than 10000 ft, it is divine.

We had to skip a visit to Baba Mandir due to lack of time. There is a legend attached to this. Harbhajan Singh is a true soldier who goes missing. He is all powerful and mighty. His soul still haunts the household and and the temple is built to worship him.

The name Tsomgo meaning 'above the lake' was given by yak herders. Old folktale says that the lake was in a place called 'laten' in olden times and the place where it is today was actually a GOTH or cattle shed where herders kept their yaks. One night an old woman in her dream was told to leave the place soon as it would be filled with water. Next morning she warned all the herders. But they refused to believe her. She left the village and as she left she saw a lady with flowing hair believed to be Guardian Deity of the lake enter the valley and soon the place was filled with water and Tsomgo lake was formed. The other herders perished in the water along with their yaks.
The lake is worshipped today by people and religious offerings made especially during Guru Poornima.

4PM: Back to the hotel and relaxing. The tour is over now.

Valley View from Royal Demazong

7PM: A game of housie at night followed by a sumptuous dinner and hit the sack.

That sums up the Gangtok holiday. It held lots of promise. Though the initial phase seemed off the mark, it gradually picked up and ended with the best. I would highly recommend a visit to North East India - Sikkim. Leh and Ladakh have much similarities to this place. But the beauty of both these places lies in the eyes of the beholder.

North East India - unplugged: North Sikkim

6 May

Flags are an integral part of Buddhist culture. As per Buddhist tradition white flags are raised in memory of a deceased while the colored ones are for good luck. The color is decided by the Llamas as per the individual's horoscope. Majority of the people have these flags outside their homes.

We now move to North Sikkim. We have to spend a day each at Lachen and Lachung before we return to Gangtok for the last leg of the tour.

10AM: The winding roads begin again as we start our journey towards higher pastures. The quality of roads is very poor due to the incessant rain. Or possibly this may be the state of roads the year round. With a couple of halts for lunch and view points, we were very much on target.

Seven Sister's Falls

Seven sisters waterfall, is one of the popular falls., though still haven't figured out why it's called so.

Feeling of déjà vu. Army personnel, camps, military van, BRO( Border roads organization) and their memorable quotes.
"Be gentle on my curve"
"Better to be Mr. Late than Late Mr. "
"This is highway not Runway".

We had been to Leh-Ladakh 3 yrs back and comparisons are bound to arise.

The feeling of impending rain, possible landslides and turbulent roads-all kept us on the vigil during the entire journey. There always is a river flowing besides. Here 'twas the 'Lachen' river.


5PM: Chungthang- is the junction from where roads to Lachen and Lachung bifurcate. Both these cities came around their individual rivers which meet at this junction.

6PM: We have now almost reached our hotel 'Apple Orchard'.

Apple Orchard

Lachen is approx 10000 ft above sea level. Temperatures here are anywhere between 5-7 deg. Considering the altitude and region, the Hotel does provide good services.
We have lost all communication with the world. Except BSNL, no network is available.
No bottled water allowed in this town to prevent plastic waste.

8PM: No heaters for the rooms but hot water bags to keep us warm in between
the bed sheets. Have to sleep early since wake up call is at 330 hrs.


7 May

4AM: Friends, Romans and countrymen. Kindly advise. Is it a smart thing to do? Get up at 3am while on a holiday, put on 3-4 layers of woollens, travel for 3hrs on rugged terrain, and make your kids uncomfortable and cranky. That's exactly what we did today. So much so that when we reached 'Gurudongmar Lake' the kids refused to get out of the vehicle. But the beauty of this place was just enthralling. It made us feel that the effort was worth it. At an altitude of 17000 ft, this lake is surrounded by the snow mountains. A Buddhist temple in the vicinity adds to the charm.

We had packed ourselves some breakfast including eggs and sandwiches. It was then that a new belief was brought to our notice. Eggs and chillies should not be "handed" over to anybody since it creates enmity!

2PM: After a Sikkimese lunch at the Royal Orchard, it was time to move on to Lachung. Another 3 hrs, and we should be there.

4PM: The drive to Lachung is very similar to the previous ones. Bumpy roads, greens on either side, hilly terrain but it was much more scenic and beautiful.

6PM: 'Yarlam Resort' belonged to the same group as our Lachen hotel. This resort seems very suave and enticing but unfortunately we are just overnight here.

8 May

6AM: Another early morning wake up. But it seemed simpler this time. We were not so keen to slog it again today after yesterday's experience. But we were assured that today's visits could turn out to be our all time favorite. And so it was to be....

8AM: A 2 hrs drive to 'Zero Point'

Zero Point

was one of the most beautiful drives in India ever experienced. It was nature at its best. Lush green fields and trees overhanging both sides of the roads with flowering plants - "Rhododendrons" and "Primula" and the ever flowing 'Lachung' river, the weather all so pleasant and cold with the clouds meandering above. This was called 'Yumthang Valley' or the Valley of Flowers. 

Zero point is so called since it is the last motorable civilian point. Beyond this only the army vehicles are allowed and soon leads to the Indo-China border. No hassles were experienced during the drive and kids were all too fresh to get out and play in the snow.
I don't think the kids have ever before enjoyed playing so much in the snow.

2PM: It was time to wind up our North Sikkim segment and return to Gangtok. Once again the same unwinding roads, hilly terrain etc.

Lachung is a much more developed region in North Sikkim as compared to Lachen. The Hotels are more well equipped, the roads are relatively maintained better, though the earthquake in 2011 has damaged them to a great extent, places to visit are more and and easily accessible and the natural beauty is breathtaking.


6PM: Unfortunately, we got delayed little bit and and not before long it was dark and we found ourselves driving into wilderness and very poor visibility due to the intense fog. Finally we did reach our own 'Royal DemaZong - Club Mahindra', being the last guests to check in for the day.

9PM: End of an exhaustive day. Good night.

North East India - unplugged: Baiguney, Sikkim

3/4 May

The drive from Darjeeling to Sikkim was very rugged. This was a shorter route that led us to "
Club Mahindra, Baiguney".
The resort property is just like a standard Mahindra property where it follows the high standards set by the Mahindra group.
The hospitality, the dining, the activities are all first rate.
Kids always have had a ball at Mahindra's. The first thing they check out is the Funzone. Table tennis, cricket, Badminton, and a host of indoor games are always on. Over and above these, are activities like camping out, karaoke, housie and all.
A swim in the pool followed by steam and sauna is absolutely refreshing.
The place is so self sufficient and teeming with activities that there is no space for any sight seeing. We called off our 'Namchi' and 'Char dham' visits and spent time to relax at this resort.

And now finally we come to the USP of this Mahindra property. It's situated on the banks of the 'Rangit' river. The serenity of this flowing river is visible from the majority of the rooms. A walk in the evening along this would probably be the most romantic walk ever.

So, the entire 2 days were spent just relaxing and doing nothing. Wow. Isn't it amazing. That's what we call a MAHINDRA HOLIDAY.